Software-defined radio

$30 receivers, panadapters and full SDR transceivers.

In a software-defined radio, the hardware digitises a slice of spectrum and software does the filtering and demodulation. Practically, that means you see the band instead of tuning blindly across it — and you can change what the radio is by changing the program.

Receive-only, for about $30

An RTL-SDR dongle (RTL2832U with an R820T2 or R828D tuner) covers roughly 500 kHz to 1.7 GHz. With a good antenna it will let you:

  • Watch a whole band at once and see where activity is.
  • Decode APRS, SSTV, FT8,
  • aircraft ADS-B, NOAA weather satellite images and pagers.

  • Diagnose your own station — find birdies, harmonics and
  • noise sources.

  • Learn modulation by looking at it. This is the cheapest education in radio there is.

Buy from a reputable source (rtl-sdr.com's v3/v4), add an upconverter or use direct sampling for HF, and fit a bandpass filter if you live near broadcast transmitters.

Better receivers

  • Airspy HF+ Discovery, SDRplay RSPdx — real HF performance, good dynamic range, $200–400.
  • KiwiSDR and the public WebSDR network — free receivers around the world in your browser.
  • Listen to your own signal from another continent; nothing else tells you as much about your antenna.

Transceivers

  • Hermes-Lite 2, HackRF, LimeSDR, ADALM-Pluto — open, experimenter-oriented.
  • FlexRadio, Apache ANAN — direct-sampling HF transceivers run entirely from a PC client.
  • Most modern mainstream radios (IC-7300, IC-7610, FTdx10, TS-890) are SDRs internally with a
  • built-in spectrum display; you get the benefits without a computer.

Software

SDR++, SDRangel, GQRX, SDR# and CubicSDR for general use; GNU Radio if you want to build the signal chain yourself. See software.

Practical notes

  • Panadapter output from a conventional radio (an IF tap or the IC-7300's USB stream) gives you the
  • waterfall without replacing the radio.

  • Keep the dongle away from the transmit antenna, or fit a receive-protection relay — a few watts
  • will destroy the front end.

  • USB noise is real: use a shielded cable, a ferrite choke and, if needed, a powered hub.

Last updated Aug 27, 2026. Page history · Sign in to edit